Exploring Okubo, Tokyo's vibrant Koreatown
Nestled in the heart of Shinjuku, Tokyo, lies Okubo, a neighborhood that has transformed into a bustling Koreatown over the past few decades. Known for its extensive Korean community, diverse culinary scene, and unique history, Okubo offers visitors a glimpse into the rich cultural tapestry of modern Japan. This article delves into the origins, evolution, and current state of this fascinating district.
The early days: From post-war slum to Korean enclave
In the aftermath of World War II, Okubo emerged from the ruins as a slum area housing Korean laborers who had been brought to Japan during its colonial rule of Korea. The neighborhood's pre-war status as an opulent area, similar to present-day Azabu, had been shattered. As the Korean community grew, so did the number of Korean shops, restaurants, and grocers along the main street, Okubo-dori Avenue.
In the 1950s, Zainichi Korean businessman Shin Kyuk-ho established a Lotte confectionary factory near Shin-Okubo Station, attracting more Koreans to the area for work. The neighborhood's affordable rent and convenient access to transportation made it an appealing location for Korean immigrants.
The rise of Koreatown: 1990s Korean Wave and growing popularity
Okubo began to be significantly associated with Korea in the 1990s. The sudden increase in Korean businesses around 1995 coincided with the rising popularity of Korean popular media in Japan, such as the action movie "Shiri" in 2000 and the drama "Winter Sonata" in 2002. The area came to be popularly called "Koreatown" around the time of the 2002 FIFA World Cup, which South Korea and Japan jointly hosted.
The neighborhood's transformation was further propelled by the privatization of Japan's national railway. The East Japan Railway Company purchased and renovated the slum area, with some Korean residents using the money they received to establish businesses in Okubo.
A hero's legacy: The story of Lee Soo-hyun
On January 26, 2001, a tragic incident at Shin-Okubo Station brought the neighborhood into the national spotlight. Lee Soo-hyun, a 26-year-old South Korean student, and Shiro Sekine, a Japanese photographer, died while trying to rescue a drunk Japanese man who had fallen onto the train tracks. Lee, whose ancestors had been forced laborers in Japan during the colonial period, was hailed as a hero in both countries for his selfless act.
Lee's parents used the donations they received from both Japan and South Korea to create the Lee Soo-hyun Memorial Scholarship Foundation, which provides scholarships for students across Asia to study in Japan. As of 2021, the fund had assisted 998 students. Lee's life was also portrayed in the 2007 Japanese film "26 Years Diary," which was viewed by Emperor Akihito and Empress Michiko.
Challenges and resilience: Weathering political tensions and boycotts
Despite its growth and popularity, Okubo has faced challenges stemming from political tensions between Japan and South Korea. In 2012, after then-South Korean President Lee Myung-bak's controversial visit to the disputed Liancourt Rocks, a significant boycott of Korea-related businesses occurred in Japan. The area was affected by these boycotts, with far-right Japanese nationalist groups participating in anti-Korean protests.
Korean businesses in Okubo reportedly almost halved in number around this time. However, the neighborhood has shown resilience, with the number of Korea-related businesses increasing from 396 in 2017 to 634 in 2022, a 61% increase. The success of the Korean drama "Crash Landing on You" in 2020 also brought a surge of visitors to the area.
Beyond Korea: The emergence of "Muslim Town" and "Little Chinatown"
In recent years, Okubo has attracted immigrants from various countries, particularly from Southeast Asia and the Middle East. This has led to the emergence of new ethnic enclaves within the neighborhood, such as "Muslim Town" and "Little Chinatown."
The area known as "Islam Yokocho" features halal markets, restaurants serving Indonesian and Malaysian cuisine, and a small mosque catering to the local Muslim population. Residents from across Southeast Asia, South Asia, and the Middle East come here to purchase halal ingredients and enjoy meals from their home countries.
Okubo today: A thriving hub of Korean culture and cuisine
Today, Okubo remains a bustling center of Korean culture and cuisine in Tokyo. The nearby Shin-Okubo Station receives significant foot traffic, exceeding 100,000 visitors per day as of September 2022. The area boasts an estimated 9 million annual visitors.
Korean restaurants and shops line the streets, offering everything from authentic Korean barbecue and street food to K-pop merchandise and cosmetics. The restaurant chain Saikabo, founded by South Korean immigrants in Okubo in 1993, has expanded across Japan and internationally, testament to the area's culinary influence.
Young people queue for the latest Korean street food
Exploring Okubo: Must-visit spots and experiences for visitors
For those looking to immerse themselves in Okubo's vibrant atmosphere, there are plenty of must-visit spots and experiences:
- Korean beauty stores: Stock up on the latest K-beauty products at shops like Myeongdong Cosme, Skin Garden, and MISSHA.
- K-pop merchandise: Find goods featuring your favorite K-pop idols at Idol Park.
- Street food: Savor popular Korean snacks like hotteok (sweet pancakes) and Korean corn dogs.
- Korean barbecue restaurants: Indulge in delicious samgyeopsal (grilled pork belly) and other Korean dishes.
- Trendy cafes: Experience Seoul's cafe culture at spots like Sul Bing Cafe, 2D Cafe, and Cafe Neul.
- Kaichu Inari-jinja Shrine: Visit this historic shrine dating back to the 1500s for a taste of traditional Japanese culture amidst the Korean influences.
For accommodations, visitors can choose from a range of options, from the conveniently located Bespoke Hotel Shinjuku to the luxurious and eco-friendly Hyatt Regency Tokyo.
With its rich history, diverse community, and thriving cultural scene, Okubo offers a unique experience for those seeking to explore the intersection of Korean and Japanese cultures in the heart of Tokyo. As the neighborhood continues to evolve and embrace its multicultural identity, it remains a must-visit destination for locals and tourists alike.
To plan your visit and learn more about accessing Okubo, the area's festivals and events, or to view an Okubo map, be sure to explore the additional resources available. For more information on Tokyo's fascinating neighborhoods, check out our Tokyo Area Guides.
