Happi coats: traditional Japanese festival wear

What are happi coats?

Happi coats are loose-fitting, short jackets typically made of cotton. They feature wide sleeves and an open frontthat is secured with a sash or obi. Traditional happi coats often come in solid colors like blue, red, black, or white, but modern versions can be found in a rainbow of hues. The most distinctive feature of a happi coat is its bold graphics or symbols, which are usually printed or embroidered on the back and lapels.

These jackets are designed to be worn over other clothing, making them perfect for Japanese festivals and outdoor events. The lightweight fabric and open design allow for easy movement and comfort, even in warm weather. While traditionally associated with men's wear, happi coats are now popular among all genders and ages.

The history and cultural significance of happi coats

The origins of happi coats can be traced back to the Edo period (1603-1868). Initially, they served as uniforms for workers and servants, with each coat bearing the crest or mon of the family or business they represented. This practice allowed for easy identification and showcased a sense of belonging to a specific group.

One of the most notable early uses of happi coats was by firefighters in Edo-era Japan. These brave individuals wore happi coats with their brigade's symbol, often turning the coats inside out to reveal colorful designs when celebrating a successful firefighting effort.

Over time, happi coats became associated with festivals and celebrations. Today, they are an integral part of many Japanese festivals, worn by participants carrying mikoshi (portable shrines) or performing in parades. The coats serve as a unifying element, with groups often wearing matching designs to show their affiliation.

Japanese women of Sakurae Town in Shimane Prefecture perform the local town dance at the annual Iki Iki Matsuri

Types and designs of happi coats

While traditional happi coats often feature simple, bold designs, modern versions come in a wide variety of styles:

• Matsuri happi: These festival coats typically feature the kanji for "matsuri" (祭, festival) on the back and are worn during local celebrations.
• Taiko happi: Often sleeveless, these are worn by taiko drummers during performances.
• Yosakoi happi: Longer versions worn by dancers in the Yosakoi festival, often reaching the knees.
• Corporate happi: Worn by company representatives at trade fairs or promotional events, featuring the company logo or name.
• Anime and manga-inspired happi: Popular among younger generations and cosplay enthusiasts, these feature characters or symbols from Japanese pop culture.

Designs can range from traditional Japanese motifs like cherry blossoms, waves, and dragons to modern abstract patterns or even custom designs for specific events or groups.

Materials and construction of happi coats

Traditionally, happi coats were made from cotton fabric, often dyed with indigo to create the classic blue color. The lightweight, breathable nature of cotton made it ideal for outdoor wear during warm festival seasons. Today, while cotton remains popular, you can also find happi coats made from:

• Polyester or polyester blends
• Linen
• Silk (for more formal or luxurious versions)

The construction of a happi coat is relatively simple, consisting of rectangular pieces of fabric sewn together. The sleeves are wide and typically three-quarter length. The front of the coat is left open, to be secured with a sash or obi. The lapels (heri) often feature a contrasting color and may bear the name of the festival, group, or event.

Symbols or designs are typically applied using techniques such as screen printing, embroidery, or appliqué. Some high-end or traditional happi coats may feature hand-painted designs or intricate embroidery work.

Model wearing a traditional black happi with obi belt

Red happi with matsuri (festival) kanji on the back

How to wear a happi coat

Wearing a happi coat is relatively straightforward, but there are a few tips to ensure you wear it correctly and comfortably:

1. Layer appropriately: Happi coats are meant to be worn over other clothing. For festivals, this often means a t-shirt and shorts or light pants.
2. Secure the front: Use the provided sash or obi to tie the coat closed. The bow should sit at your waist.
3. Adjust the sleeves: The sleeves should fall about midway between your elbow and wrist. You can roll them up slightly if needed.
4. Add accessories: Consider pairing your happi coat with traditional accessories like a hachimaki (headband) or tabi socks and sandals for a complete festival look.

Remember, happi coats are meant to be comfortable and allow for easy movement. Don't tie the sash too tightly, and make sure you have a full range of motion in your arms.

Happi are also great for just relaxing around the house

Where to buy authentic happi coats

If you're looking to purchase an authentic happi coat, there are several options available:

• Traditional craft shops in Japan: Cities like Kyoto and Tokyo have numerous shops specializing in traditional clothing.
• Festival souvenir shops: Many Japanese festivals sell happi coats as souvenirs.
• Online marketplaces: Websites like Rakuten or Amazon Japan often have a wide selection of happi coats.
• Specialty online stores: There are several online stores that specialize in Japanese traditional clothing and ship internationally.
• Second-hand shops: In Japan, stores like Kinji or Chicago often have vintage or second-hand happi coats.

When purchasing, pay attention to the size (many are one-size-fits-all), material, and any care instructions. Authentic happi coats may feature kanji characters or traditional Japanese motifs, so familiarize yourself with these to ensure you're getting a genuine article.

Caring for and preserving your happi coat

To ensure your happi coat remains in good condition for years to come, follow these care instructions:

• Washing: Most happi coats can be machine washed on a gentle cycle with cold water. However, always check the care label first.
• Drying: Air dry your happi coat by hanging it in the shade. Avoid direct sunlight as it may fade the colors.
• Ironing: If needed, iron on a low setting. For coats with printed designs, iron on the reverse side to protect the graphics.
• Storage: Store your happi coat folded or on a wide hanger to maintain its shape. Keep it in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight.
• Stain removal: Treat stains promptly with a gentle stain remover suitable for the fabric type.

With proper care, your happi coat can be a cherished piece of Japan House & Home memorabilia, reminding you of joyful festival experiences or serving as a unique addition to your wardrobe. Whether you're participating in a lively matsuri, enjoying a Japan Seasons celebration, or simply want to add a touch of Japanese culture to your attire, a well-maintained happi coat is sure to bring a smile to your face and those around you.