Hiji guide - Discover the hidden gems of this charming town in Oita Prefecture
If you're looking to explore the lesser-known parts of Japan, the small town of Hiji in Oita Prefecture is a hidden gem worthy of your attention. Often overlooked by tourists traveling between Kitsuki and Beppu, Hiji offers a diverse array of interesting attractions for those willing to take the time to discover its charms. From a garden designed by the famous painter Sesshu Toyo to the largest cycad tree in Japan, castle ruins, and a delightful Sanrio theme park, Hiji has something to captivate every type of traveler.
Sho'oku-ji Temple and the Sesshu garden - A must-see for art and history lovers
The highlight of any visit to Hiji is undoubtedly the Sesshu garden at Sho'oku-ji Temple. Sesshu Toyo (1420-1506), considered one of the greatest painters in Japanese history, designed this exquisite garden during his later years while living in Oita to escape the turmoil of the Onin War. Born in present-day Okayama, Sesshu trained as a Zen monk and studied painting under the master Shubun before traveling to China. Upon his return to Japan, he settled in Oita and created some of his most renowned works, including the garden at Sho'oku-ji.
The temple itself sits on expansive grounds, having been chosen as the family temple of the Kinoshita clan who ruled this domain from the start of the Edo Period. After paying the entrance fee to the elderly priest, visitors approach the buildings through the serene Manyu Garden, which Sesshu may have also had a hand in designing. The garden unfolds like a scroll painting, with a crane-shaped pond and turtle island symbolizing longevity. Changing with the seasons, the garden is particularly stunning in winter after a fresh snowfall.
The elderly priest will guide you to the treasure house to view artifacts and paintings attributed to Sesshu, before leading you to the master's garden. While not as manicured as some of Japan's more famous gardens, Sesshu's creation possesses a unique, timeless beauty that reflects his artistic sensibilities.
Detail of the Sesshu Garden, Sho'okiji Temple, Hiji, Oita Prefecture, Kyushu, Japan
The biggest cycad tree in Japan - A natural wonder not to be missed
As you approach Sho'oku-ji's main hall, an enormous tree comes into view. At first glance, it appears to be a clump of trees, but is in fact a single cycad estimated to be around 650 years old. Reaching a height of 6.4 meters with a trunk circumference of 4.5 meters, this massive specimen is the largest of its kind in Japan. Originally from the garden of the 16th-century Christian daimyo Otomo Sorin, the cycad was transplanted to Funai Castle before finding its current home at Sho'oku-ji in the Meiji Period. Its impressive size and history make it a must-see for any visitor to Hiji.
Biggest Cycad in Japan at Sho'okiji Temple, Hiji, Oita Prefecture, Kyushu, Japan
Exploring the ruins of Hiji Castle - A glimpse into the town's feudal past
The Kinoshita clan, who were moved to this area from Himeji at the start of the Edo Period, maintained control of the Hiji domain until the Meiji Period. They built Hiji Castle (also known as Yokoku Castle) in 1601 on a strategic hilltop overlooking Beppu Bay. Although it was a relatively small castle with a three-story keep and six turrets, it played a significant role in the region's history. Dismantled in 1871, all that remains today are the stone base, one dilapidated turret, and the moat, which has been transformed into a small park next to an elementary school. While the ruins are not as extensive as some other castles in Japan, they offer a glimpse into Hiji's feudal past and are worth a visit for history buffs.
Sanrio Harmonyland - A delightful theme park for Hello Kitty fans
For a change of pace, head to Sanrio Harmonyland, a theme park dedicated to the beloved characters created by Sanrio, most notably Hello Kitty. Due to its remote location, Harmonyland is less crowded than its sister park, Puroland, near Tokyo. This means shorter lines for the park's various attractions, which include rides, roller coasters, a Ferris wheel, and boat and train rides. While none of the rides are particularly noteworthy, the lack of crowds on days other than major national holidays allows for multiple goes on your favorites.
In addition to the rides, Harmonyland offers plenty of opportunities for photos with Hello Kitty and other Sanrio characters, as well as live shows, Hello Kitty's house, and a wide array of themed merchandise and food. It's a delightful experience for fans of cute characters and families with young children.
Other notable attractions in Hiji - From traditional architecture to sacred shrines
As you explore Hiji, keep an eye out for the town's many surviving examples of kote-e plaster reliefs adorning traditional buildings. These intricate decorative elements add a touch of artistic flair to the streetscape.
Don't miss the Wakamiya Hachiman Shrine, which features a stunning tower gate reminiscent of the time before the Meiji Period when shrines and temples could coexist in one establishment. The shrine grounds provide a peaceful respite from the bustle of the town.
Getting to Hiji - Transportation options and travel tips
Hiji is conveniently located on the Nippo Line, just 70 minutes from Kokura, 30 minutes from Oita, and 15 minutes from Beppu. To reach Hiji from Hakata Station in Fukuoka, take the Kyushu Shinkansen to Kokura, followed by the Sonic Limited Express to Nakatsu, and finally the Nippo Line to Hiji. The total journey takes around 2 hours and 20 minutes.
Alternatively, you can take the Sonic Limited Express directly from Hakata Station to Beppu, then change to the Nippo Line for Hiji. This route also takes about 2 hours and 20 minutes but is often cheaper than going via Kokura.
Where to stay in Hiji - Recommended accommodations for a comfortable visit
For a comfortable stay in Hiji, consider the Beppuwan Royal Hotel, a 3-star accommodation overlooking Beppu Bay that offers both Western and Japanese-style rooms. Another excellent option is the Spa and Resort Hotel Solage Oita Hiji, also located on the coast, which features indoor and outdoor hot spring baths, stunning views, and a free shuttle bus to Hiji Station.
The view from Hiji looking down the bay towards Beppu, Oita Prefecture, Kyushu, Japan
Making the most of your Hiji experience - Suggested itineraries and insider tips
To make the most of your visit to Hiji, we recommend allocating at least a full day to explore the town's main attractions. Start your morning at Sho'oku-ji Temple, taking your time to appreciate the Sesshu garden and marvel at the enormous cycad tree. Enjoy a leisurely lunch at one of the local restaurants before heading to the ruins of Hiji Castle in the early afternoon.
If you're traveling with children or are a fan of cute characters, dedicate the latter half of the afternoon to Sanrio Harmonyland. Be sure to catch one of the live shows and snap plenty of photos with your favorite Sanrio friends.
As you wander through the streets of Hiji, keep your eyes peeled for the charming kote-e plaster reliefs on traditional buildings and take a moment to visit the serene Wakamiya Hachiman Shrine.
For a more in-depth exploration of Oita Prefecture, consider combining your visit to Hiji with trips to the nearby cities of Kitsuki and Beppu, each offering their own unique attractions and experiences.
With its fascinating history, artistic heritage, and diverse attractions, Hiji is a hidden gem that rewards travelers who take the time to uncover its many charms. By following this guide and allowing yourself to be immersed in the town's rich culture and scenic beauty, you're sure to have an unforgettable experience in this captivating corner of Japan.
For more Japan travel inspiration, check out our other Japan City Guides and start planning your next adventure in the Land of the Rising Sun. Don't forget to pack your copy of Books on Japan to deepen your understanding and appreciation of this fascinating country.
